Maestro's Half Moon Sunshade
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ma
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#1 Maestro's Half Moon Sunshade
Everybody knows the situation where the sun is so low and close to the target that you almost have to look straight into it. Sadly, even the longest sunshade tube can not help in this case. I found a more effective solution, this is the half moon shaped mask which can be rotated always towards the sun and gives a massive shadow while letting more than half of the field-of-view free. I tried it many times in Winter League competitions when the sun was low and really helped.
- Jon
- Contact:
- Go to Rifle: JH
- Country: UK
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Used to use a Butler Creek on my old VX3, does same job and also affects where the ranges come in.
I did report to S&B back in 2006 about the shoddy optics.
#2 Re: Maestro's Half Moon Sunshade
Good idea for those with inferior glass, but what about the setup for each target while theres many waiting.maestro wrote:Everybody knows the situation where the sun is so low and close to the target that you almost have to look straight into it. Sadly, even the longest sunshade tube can not help in this case.
Used to use a Butler Creek on my old VX3, does same job and also affects where the ranges come in.
I did report to S&B back in 2006 about the shoddy optics.
If a jobs worth doing, do it right or not at all.
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ma
Post
#3 Re: Maestro's Half Moon Sunshade
It is very easy and quick to use it, Jon. Just flip back the cover and rotate the small screw into the direction of the sun.
Sadly, buying another scope is not an option for me... But is there really such a big difference between the scopes? As I can remember, my old Big Nikko didn't like it either when the sun shone into it.
Sadly, buying another scope is not an option for me... But is there really such a big difference between the scopes? As I can remember, my old Big Nikko didn't like it either when the sun shone into it.
- Jon
- Contact:
- Go to Rifle: JH
- Country: UK
Post
#4 Re: Maestro's Half Moon Sunshade
They are crap as well Andras thats why theyre cheap.
The white outs caused by the light rays scattering from lens to lens rather than if decent glass would pass through without deflecting.
I did tell S&B how poor the glass was in 2006 but as usual they think they know best. My old Mark 4 wiped the floor in bright to almost pitch black and so will the Comp Series.
Not as bad as first suspected, good idea.
The white outs caused by the light rays scattering from lens to lens rather than if decent glass would pass through without deflecting.
I did tell S&B how poor the glass was in 2006 but as usual they think they know best. My old Mark 4 wiped the floor in bright to almost pitch black and so will the Comp Series.
Not as bad as first suspected, good idea.
If a jobs worth doing, do it right or not at all.
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ma
Post
#5 Re: Maestro's Half Moon Sunshade
Apart from these white-outs, I'm satisfied with my S&B.
First I tried to use some black paper strips parallel with scope axis but it turned out that they don't really help, if I want a real shade when the sun is looking into the scope then I have to mask a part of the field-of-view. My main theory was that if I want to give shade for a circle (i.e. the objective lens) then I have to place an other circle in front of it just a bit shifted towards the light source. The real solution would be an adjustable circle but this fixed one gave me enough shade all the times when I could not see anything without it.
First I tried to use some black paper strips parallel with scope axis but it turned out that they don't really help, if I want a real shade when the sun is looking into the scope then I have to mask a part of the field-of-view. My main theory was that if I want to give shade for a circle (i.e. the objective lens) then I have to place an other circle in front of it just a bit shifted towards the light source. The real solution would be an adjustable circle but this fixed one gave me enough shade all the times when I could not see anything without it.
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